Friday, June 19, 2015

Pattern Testing - The Aberdeen Jacket by Rock the Stitch for Willow & Co

Oh the Aberdeen! Where do I begin? I love this jacket. And I love Rebecca for taking a chance on me and letting me test this jacket. This jacket kicked my "confident beginner" butt.

The Aberdeen was my first ever test, and wow, what a test it was! I learned so much from sewing this jacket; it has it all. Welt pockets! Shawl collar! Asymmetric closure! Buttons! Zips! Lining! Facings! So many of these things I had never even known the names for, and many times I worried whether I was doing things "right."



My first attempt was the unlined, cropped length, 3/4 sleeve, button-style version. I thought the unlined version would be easier more "sporty," and that buttons rather than zippers would also make my life easier go well with the casual look. Ha! Let's just say that I need lots more work on bias binding. Lots. I don't even want to show you what the inside looks like because it's just embarrassing. Trust me. It is nothing to do with the pattern. It's all me and my sewing "skills," folks.


This is my fit muslin. Corduroy and twill. Totally stash-busting.
Look at that -- I sewed the flap on the wrong way!!
Uh...I meant to do that. Right.

This is with some lovely cotton from the shop Check & Stripe, located in Jiyugaoka (Tokyo). Fancy.
And see? I learned my lesson. The flap is now on correctly.

Oh and did I neglect to mention that I didn't add the actual welts to my very first "welt pockets"? In fact, I'm such a genius that I made the same mistake twice. LOL. Luckily, the pocket flap literally covered my mistake. Sorry about that, Rebecca! But hey -- look! Liberty of London on the inside of my pockets! (Do you like my attempt to distract you with the pretty fabric? Did it work?)


I bought this Liberty of London fabric from Check & Stripe, too. It was only after I bought it that I realized that tana lawn is probably not the best choice for a jacket pocket. Oh, and pay no attention to the pink bias binding you see peeking out. Let's just forget that mess ever happened, 'mkay?

The sleeves were my next big challenge. I had only sewn a few sleeves (on children's clothing!) at this point, and had no clue what it meant to ease them in. This was me: Ease? What?! Why can't I get them to fit? What is all this extra fabric?! Hey look - I have puffed sleeves! I think I like it that way. Gah!!

My friend Amy saw this and said,
"Ummm....where are the buttons? Did you wear that out without sewing on the buttons?"
Yes, I did. Because I'm a rebel like that. Ha ha!
I did sew the buttons on it eventually, I promise. Goody-two-shoes wins again.

My next version was in a black poly blend suiting fabric. Stretchy and comfortable. Still wasn't able to do the sleeves properly and was too intimidated to consider doing a lining.


Do you know I love Anne of Green Gables?
I don't think my puffed sleeves would have been puffy enough, though. Thankfully.

I wanted to move on and try another one. Cotton + Steel, from Miss Matatabi's shop here! I love me some shiny fabric. Can I blame my 4-year-old? Even though my husband was against using this fabric for a jacket, I knew it had to be made. It's so 80s. And I am a child of the 80s. I decided to christen my jacket "Ziggy":

I'm only going to subject you to the back, because I think that will give you a good enough idea. Plus I love the back of the Aberdeen Jacket. I like how the hem curves. 

It's so flash and disco, isn't it? I've grown fond of it, though I have no idea where I'd wear it. I think I need a disco ball. Anyway, if you can believe it, even after making this jacket, I still had some fabric left over so I used it for something special for my daughter. You'll see.

For the second round of testing, Rebecca made a few changes, and I made a quick muslin just to check the fit. It was much better! Particularly because I'm not especially well-endowed. Ahem.

My first-ever attempt at a lining!! Stash-busting again. Thanks, MIL! 
Very quick muslin. No pockets, no buttons/zips, no topstitching. 

The end result is a terrific pattern, as you can see from Rebecca's tester round-up, and I am really lucky that I got to be a tester for her. I could sing her praises and tell you how hard she worked on this, but I think the pattern speaks for itself. You can also see a lovely version by Camelia here, a super cool one by Andreia here and an elegant yet fun one by Maria here. Notice they all have linings, and all of their linings are gorgeous!!!

I have heard that Rebecca is considering doing a sew-a-long, so I'd keep an eye out on Rebecca's blog or Willow & Co site for any news!


Emi

*Pattern received in compensation for the test, but opinions are all my own.

11 comments:

  1. Aw, thank you, Gloria! I love yours as well!
    And here's the link for those who want to see it: https://glamacreations.wordpress.com/2015/05/28/my-aberdeen-jacket/

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  2. Wow, lots of firsts there, but you nailed the fit!! I can do all the tech stuff but I never have made anything that fit or flattered me like that jacket does for you! Love the navy and the Ziggy version too.

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    1. That's so nice of you to say....but I've seen what you have made and I would say you have made many, many amazing things that look terrific on you!! Glad you like the Ziggy as well. ;) I have a special place in my heart for it even though it's definitely not popular in my household, ha ha!

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  3. So many great versions Emi!
    On a side note, I have also wore a tunic without the buttons... LOL I was so eager to use it (and so lazy to sew them up) I didn't care... But don't tell anyone! :)
    And I LOVE Anne of Green Gables! It was my favorite novel when I was a child...
    The shiny fabric from Cotton+Steel is perfect! So cool!

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    1. Thanks, Sara!! <3 I'm glad I'm not the only rebel who wears her clothes out before sewing the buttons on, ha ha! It's not the first time, I have to admit...and it probably won't be the last! Thanks also for your kind words about my shiny fabric. I still love it!
      And YAY for Anne of Green Gables! ;)

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  4. Emi, after looking at your 2nd picture i can only tell you to shut up! Look at that perfect seam matching! haha we from the 80´s are total rebel girls, i skip buttons all the time and just wear things outside like that! And you don´t need a special reason to wear that flashy beauty, just take "Ziggy" to the grocerie store (aka fabric shop) hahahaha!

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    1. Ha ha Andreia! I was getting a bit obsessed with trying to match my seams. Luckily it worked out -- that time! And I like your idea of wearing Ziggy to do my "groceries", LOL!!!!!

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  5. Emi, you've got to stop pointing out all the mistakes you made because I would have never been able to tell there were mistakes until you pointed them out! The jacket looks amazing on you especially when I saw you in the jacket in person! I make up my own patterns but I would never in a million years attempt to make a jacket with this much difficulty! You are awesome!

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  6. Emi, just gotta say it... YOU ROCK! <3

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    1. I couldn't have done it without you, Amy!!! xxx

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